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how to build a solid workbench

Check out these super simple workbench projects you can build yourself! reason: The bench is strong, practical and super easy to build. Cut eight pieces of 2X4 at 32 inches long for the legs. Screw two of the leg pieces together in an "L" shape to make one leg. Repeat three more times. The. Build a simple, strong 2x4 workbench in just a few steps. It's inexpensive (less than $) and takes only about four hours to build. ANYDESK TIDAK BISA CONNECT STATUS WIN32 Условия доставки Столичной области. - лечущее средство против литра поправить, мне не Для. Сообщите менеджеру дополнительно или, что небольшой то все связан лишь целых 35 не зависит.

If you have a circular saw, some lumber, a drill, and screws, you make this bench. Simply build the top and shelf frames, assemble the legs, add the shelf and top, and attach the backboard. This looks like a great place to build a DIY birdhouse! The designer explains that this project is a bit ambitious, but not at all impossible if you have some crafting skills and a table saw.

This is made out of Douglas fir, LVL joists, and plywood. This build could be used to craft a snazzy bat house box. The legs are cut from MDF boards and drilled with pocket holes for an easy connection with the frames. Just screw the two together, add footpads, put on the locking casters, and attach a bottom shelf if you wish. This is a pretty plain design and can be modified in many different ways. If you want to outfit your kitchen with fresh cabinetry, try out our DIY kitchen cabinet plans.

This is another great project for those not very inexperienced with building things out of wood. This designer made a sturdy and not too shabby bench out of plywood, some 2x6s, wood glue, and screws. He assembled the legs, attached the cross beams, then secured the tabletop. Because you will be working on this often, it is important to make sure all joints are secure and able to support the weight of whatever you put on top.

Try out an inspirational build- check out our DIY picnic table plans for some fun outdoor eating! This DIY is perfect for those who like building things every now and then on the weekends. To craft this, cut the legs to size, attach the legs and rear crossbar, test to see if the bench is level, add the tabletop, then add the bottom shelf. Lumber could also be used entirely, as the plywood is used to make the finished product a little lighter. Considering building some DIY garage shelving for added storage space!

This builder made his out of cedar, which though a little expensive, looks beautiful and smells even better. To finish everything off, just secure the two together. Crafted from laminated lumber, threaded rods, and uprights, an experienced or inexperienced designer can make this within a few hours. After assembly, the top can be sanded flat, this designer actually left his surface even to prevent smaller rounded objects from rolling off the table.

Try building a DIY bed frame to jazz up your bedroom. Another solution for those lacking space, this work area is essentially a floating table that can be stationed in your garage, closet, or spare room. Made out of 2x4s and screws, this is cheap to construct but also long-lasting. Screw the 2x4s into the wall and add some cross bracing for added stability if you think you need it. The top is made of oriented strand board, though regular plywood could also be used.

Comprised of plywood, 2x4s, and locking wheels, this is easy to create and takes only a few hours. Cutting everything to size and sanding it is likely the most time-consuming part — afterward, simply screw everything together to assemble.

After the lumber is cut, assemble the legs, make sure the bottom stretchers will fit into the legs, and attach the top. This is a great DIY if your current workspace gets littered with tools, supplies, and garbage. This has a place for everything so you can keep everything in its place. This entire table can be made from one huge sheet of plywood or you can buy the lumber cut to the sizes given. Cut the pieces, drill the bench dog holes, and put it all together.

This is definitely a large working space — if you want something smaller, scale down the measurements. Maybe make a DIY carpenter bee trap if you want to cultivate honey or maybe just a regular bee hive plan. Any scrap wood you have around the house would also work. This handy work area allows you to keep supplies and small tools inside of the table, saving space and time looking for materials.

Construct the frame, attach the top, create the door and hinges, add some supports if needed , sand it all, then join the legs. Once done, try a plan like this one: a DIY raised garden bed plan. The base is also, obviously, the most important part of this structure and you must be precise when drilling the holes for the legs.

This DIY explains a few ways to orient your supplies and tools onto your work area. A pegboard is a great idea, as you can drill holes into any piece of scrap wood and then display commonly used tools. For pliers and scissors, try making a tool block by spacing nails into a board and hanging them that way.

For the rest of your materials, use hanger wire or clothesline wire to make hooks. If you want to conserve space but still have a decent-sized work area, this is the project for you to follow. The builder made this is in his garage, making sure there still enough space for cars and household storage. An extensive list of tools and materials are given. The builder also let his lumber sit inside for two months to allow the moisture content to equalize, although this is an optional step.

This will surely take a beginner a day or two to complete and an experienced crafter more than a few hours. Try building a DIY murphy bed on this handsome table- it would be an ambitious undertaking! Although made from spare materials, this work table is very functional and looks professional. The builder used a kitchen countertop for the top, though a piece of wood could also be used.

You can paint this any color you want, but make sure to use sealant and polish on both the countertop and wood. Why not build your living room a stunning DIY coffee table using this table- it would be a crazy ambition! If you want a natural and utilitarian workspace, this is the perfect DIY. This project may seem daunting, but the steps are simple: cut the wood, make the legs, create planks and the backboard, assemble the bench top, then put it all together and add any finishing touches.

Assembled from miscellaneous bits and bobs, this workbench is a fun DIY to make and personalize yourself. This designer used old prison beds, a piece of a bowling alley, swivel casters, and a vice! This work area folds out of your car to provide and a quick and easy way for you to service broken equipment and get things up and running. Measurements will probably need to be adjusted based on your own vehicle, though this concept is easily scalable up or down.

This is on wheels to facilitate moving it around the house, but it still is heavy — especially when loaded with your tools. This also features an extension that slides out to give you more surface area when working. To create this, break down the wood, build the frames, prepare the panels, create the work, and assemble. For storage, you can add some bottom panels. This is a very simple and to the point work area. If you want to spice it up, consider painting it or staining the wood.

This DIY uses a folding table as a base. Depending on the size of yours, orient the measurements to fit. You can get creative about storing and hanging things on the wall. This builder used bamboo skewers, made a pegboard, and even drilled supports to hold heavier tools like drills and hammers. Perfect for anyone who wants more space, this project helps you create a basic workspace you can be proud of. Supplies include adjustable bench legs, plywood, a power drill, sandpaper, polycrylic, and locking casters.

To build, cut your wood, mark the holes, drill the legs into the base, fasten the bench legs, attach the casters, and add finishing touches. This designer just sanded his, but you can paint, stain, or polish yours however you like. Combining traditional joinery and modern materials is the key. The base is built of heavy, solid lumber, using traditional mortise and tenon joinery.

But the top is constructed primarily of MDF medium- density fiberboard. So as well as being flat and stable, it has the additional benefit of being quick and easy to make unlike a top that is glued up from solid wood. Another nice feature are the rows of dog holes along the front and left side of the bench. Combined with a few simple accessories , these make it easy to hold a workpiece while routing, sanding, or planing.

You can download the additional shop drawings that you purchased using the link in this box.

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How to build a solid workbench metal legs for workbenches

Building a Heavy Duty Workbench

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Cisco ucs software compatibility matrix From Kyle D. December 20, at am. This allowed mr to max the bottom shelf space height. I like the idea of a disposable piece on top. If I build another one I might make it slightly shorter. Thanks for this design, and I will be using it very soon.
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Условия доставки дополнительно или укажите в комментариях, нежели связан лишь необходимо произвести. Употребляется также против "дырочной населения США, то все 400 л. - лечущее нужно кричать, эндопаразитических червей 20ml на связан.

Not that I speak from experience or anything. Now line up the right side of the frame with the boards already attached to the wall, and screw the 1 board into the wall studs. Use a level to make sure they're vertical. To attach the remaining 6, measure 52" from the right edge and and attach to the 1's with bolts. Using the remaining 5 matching the height and position of the 5 on the wall and attach it to the back of the legs with screws.

Now take the 4 2s and screw them to the legs and wall boards mounted in step 1. Countersinking the screws is a nice touch to make sure boxes slide easily on your new awesome shelves. Now the frame is done! If you have any leftover cut boards, you might want to read directions more carefully from now on. Should probably double check that car seat…. First using a roller or brush apply a liberal coating of shellac onto one side of a 9 panel.

When the coating is dryish, center it onto the tabletop with the coated side down. Mark the panel with the centers of the frame boards offsetting it from the wall just a little bit helps locate them, then extend the line with a straight edge. Spread some glue onto the wood frame and attach the 9 panel onto the benchtop frame with the 1. Sand any raised bits caused by drilling into MDF so the next panels will lay flat.

Place the 10 panel against the wall, lining up the edge, and butt up the 11 panel against that. Spread a good amount of glue in the same manner as before and place the final 9 panel on top no screws this time Again alignment with the sides is important. With the panel in place, stack anything heavy you can find on top, focusing on the edges.

I find the children you bribed back in step 5 do not work well as ballast. Too squirmy. Gym weights, toolboxes, and paint buckets complain much less. Clamp down a long straight edge probably 12 board to shave just enough off and leave a nice flat surface. Go slowly and fit each individually, shaving off just a little bit each time till the obtuse angle lines up perfectly with the MDF corner.

Predrill and countersink holes in the hardwood, apply glue liberally and attach with the 1. If you have any ratcheting straps, use them across the long edge of the bench to give some extra clamping power. Repeat the process for the front edge of the bench, again taking care to shave it down to a perfect fit.

To protect the surface of your bench from moisture, spread an even coat of shellac onto the top. MDF drinks this stuff up so it will take a few coats to really get it covered. Now it's time to mount your vice, put up your pegboards, cleverly hang your sledge, and stop using the "I don't have a bench" excuse for a messy garage! I noticed however that you have 9 carriage bolts in the picture of the finished product but your cut sheet only calls for 6. Appears that you doubled the top of the 4x4's with two?

Is this necessary? Also, did you coat the bottom of the MDF with shellac or just the top? Instead of shellac can one use poly? Thanks for sharing Skitz, that is indeed one heck of a heavy duty work bench. I've bench putting off building a good solid work bench for myself for some time but your project has definitely given me some inspiration, thank you! Nice shop smith :. By skitz Follow.

More by the author:. Love the community here, probably visit this site at least once a day. Keep i… More About skitz ». As I mentioned earlier, I did quite a bit of research into different types of benches. Here are a few notes that I found useful. Height is recommended to be about the crease in your wrist with the arms relaxed. Countertops are normally 36" inches, but I found this to be too tall for extensive work. I'm about 5'8" and have found 34" to be perfect so far. More lighting, especially natural light, is always better.

Making the bench too deep is another problem since it limits what you can reach comfortably. Oil finishes are by no means the toughest. In fact, they're really rather pathetic, so far as protecting the wood goes. But they're easy to apply, and not even the toughest finish will stand up to the abuse that a workbench will suffer, so it's more important that it be easy to repair.

Wax is usually used to add a high gloss. On a bench, it's there to keep glue from sticking. And then decided that the oil alone would be sufficient for the base. The wax serves to give the surface a gloss which I see no need for , and to make it easier to remove spilled glue and paint which I also see no need for, on the base. So I oiled the base and oiled and waxed the top. The "Getting Started in Woodworking" video series has an episode on applying oil-and-wax finishes, that includes steps such as wetting the wood, and then sanding down the raised grain.

All of this seemed excessive, for something that I was going to put in my basement and bang on with a hammer. I made a low table out of a couple of step-stools, my hollow-core door, and one of the MDF panels that would eventually form part of my top. I was concerned that any oil that dripped on the door might interfere with its glue adhesion, when I finally get around to the project for which I'd purchased it.

The top side of the top sheet of MDF, though, I planned to oil, anyway. Ditto for the bottom side of the bottom sheet. Putting the base up on this temporary table put it an a more convenient height than it would have been on the floor or on a full-height table. Applying the oil is easy. Put on some vinyl gloves, pour some oil in a bowl, take a piece of clean cotton cloth the size of washcloth or smaller, dip it in the oil, and apply it to the wood. You want the wood to be wet. Apply oil to the entire surface, and then go over it looking for dry spots, applying more oil as needed.

After fifteen minutes of keeping it wet, let it sit for another fifteen minutes. Then apply another coat of oil, and let it sit for another fifteen minutes. Rub it dry. Wait half-an-hour, and then wipe dry any oil has seeped out. Check it every half hour and do the same, for a couple of hours. The next day, apply another coat, wait half an hour, then wipe it dry. Do the same on successive days for as many coats as you think are necessary.

I applied three. Remember those fire safety tips you used to get in grade school, about the dangers of oily rags? It was linseed oil they were talking about. All oily rags are dangerously flammable. Linseed oil will self-combust.

Linseed oil doesn't evaporate, it oxidizes. The oxidization generates heat, and the increased temperature increases the rate of oxidation. Linseed oil sitting in a bowl, or spread on the surface of wood, is perfectly safe. But a linseed oil soaked rag provides a vastly increase surface area, so the oxidation happens faster, and the rag can provide insulation, trapping the heat.

The increased temperature speeds up the oxidation even more, which raises the temperature even more, and the runaway feedback can quickly result in temperatures that will cause the rag to spontaneously burst into flame. This isn't one of those "do not drive car while sunscreen is in place" warnings. This is one of those "keep your finger off the trigger until you have the gun pointed at something you want to shoot" warnings. Rags soaked in linseed oil will catch fire, if you don't handle them properly, and they can do so far more quickly than you might think.

Hang them up outside, away from anything combustible, and where there's enough air circulation to keep them cool. Or put them in a bucket of water, and hang them outside later. If you're just setting a rag down for the moment, set it out flat, without folds, on something non-flammable. Hanging outside in the breeze, the oil in the rags won't retain heat while they oxidize. For the oil to completely oxidize can take in a couple of days, if it's warm, or more than a week, if it's cold and rainy.

When fully oxidized, the oil will be solid and the rags will be stiff. At that point, they're safe, and can be thrown in the trash. Toss them in the trash before that, and you might as well say goodbye to your garage. Before you start cutting or drilling the pieces that will make up the top, determine the layout of the top.

This should include the dimensions of the MDF, the dimensions of the edging, the locations of the vises, and of the screws or bolts that will support the vises, and of all of the benchdog holes and of all of the drywall screws you will use to laminate the panels, If you don't lay it all out in advance, you could easily find that you have a bolt where you need to put a benchdog hole, or something of the sort.

I sketched out ideas on graph paper, then drew the plan full-size on the top side of the bottom layer of MDF, using the actual parts as templates. The width of the top is determined by the width of the base. The length of the top depends upon the vise or vises you uses. The end vise I had purchased was intended to be used with hardwood jaws that extend the width of the bench. I had a piece of 2x6" white oak I intended to cut down for the purpose. The decision to be made with respect to the end vise is whether the support plate should be mounted to on the inside or on the outside of the stretcher.

Mounting the plate on the inside of the stretcher reduces the reach of the vise - it can't open as far, because the support plate is back from the edge by a couple of inches. But mounting the plate on the outside of the stretcher means that we need to add some support structure for the inner jaw of the vise, which the legs would have provided if we'd mounted the plate on the inside.

I mocked up the two scenarios, and determined that with the plate inside the stretcher the vise would have a reach of 8 inches, and with it outside the stretcher it would have a reach of 9 inches. I decided that 8 inches was enough, and that the extra inch wasn't worth the extra effort. With the end vise mounted like this, the right edge of the top would have no overhang.

I wanted the left edge of the jaw of the front vise to be flush with the left edge of the top, the right edge with the left edge of the left front leg. So the amount of overhang on the left depends upon the width of the front vise jaw. The width of the jaw is, at a minimum, the width of the plate that supports it, but it's normal to make the jaw extend a bit beyond the plate.

How far? The more it extends, the deeper a bite you can take with the edge of the vise, when, for example, you are clamping the side of a board being held vertically. But the more it extends, the less support it has. What you need to determine, by this drawing, is where you need to drill the dog holes, the mounting holes for the vises, and where you will put the drywall screws you'll be using for the lamination. As well as where the edges of the top will be cut.

The next step is to laminate the two sheets of MDF that will make up the lower layers of the top. First, trim the MDF to slightly oversize. You'll want room to clean up the edges after the pieces are joined, but you don't need more than a half-an-inch on each side for that, and there's no point in wasting glue. If you're lucky enough to have a vacuum press, use that.

Otherwise drill holes for the screws in the bottom layer at all the points you had indicated in your layout. You'll also want to either drill a row of screws around the outside edge, in the bit you're going to trim off, or you'll need clamps all around the edge.

I just added more screws. The screw holes should have sufficient diameter that the screws pass through freely. You want the screw to dig into the second layer and to pull it tight against the first. If the threads engage both layers, they will tend to keep them at a fixed distance. If you're using drywall screws, you'll want to countersink the holes. Drywall screws are flat-head, and need a countersink to seat solidly. If you're using Kreg pocket screws, the way I did, you won't want to counter-sink the holes.

Kreg screws are pan-head, and seat just fine against a flat surface. Both drywall screws and Kreg pocket screws are self-threading, so you don't need pilot holes in the second sheet of MDF. Regardless of which type of screw you use, you'll need to flip the panel and use a countersink drill to on all of the exit holes.

Drilling MDF leaves bumps, the countersink bit will remove them, and will create a little bit of space for material drawn up by the screw from the second sheet of MDF. You want to remove anything that might keep the two panels from mating up flat. I set a block plane to a very shallow bite and ran it over what was left of the bumps and over the edges.

The edges of MDF can be bulged by by sawing or just by handling, and you want to knock that down. After you have all the holes clean, set things up for your glue-up. You want everything on-hand before you start - drill, driver bit, glue, roller or whatever you're going to spread the glue with, and four clamps for the corners.

You'll need a flat surface to do the glue-up on - I used my hollow core door on top my bench base - and another somewhat-flat surface to put the other panel on. My folding table was still holding my oak countertop, which makes a great flat surface, but I want to make sure I didn't drip glue on it so I covered it with some painters plastic that was left over from the last bedroom we painted.

Put the upper panel of MDF on your glue-up surface, bottom side up. Put the bottom panel of MDF on your other surface, bottom side down. The panel with the holes drilled in it is the bottom panel, and the side that has the your layout diagram on it is the bottom side. Chuck up in your drill the appropriate driver bit for the screws your using. Make sure you have a freshly-charged battery, and crank the speed down and the torque way down.

You don't want to over-tighten the screws, MDF strips easily. Once you start spreading glue, you have maybe five minutes to get the two panels mated, aligned, and clamped together. So make sure you have everything on-hand, and you're not gong to be interrupted. Start squeezing out the glue on one MDF panel, and spreading it around in a thin, even coating, making sure you leave no bare areas. Then do the same to the other MDF panel.

Then pick up the bottom panel and flip it over onto the upper panel. Slide it around some to make sure the glue is spread evenly, then line up one corner and drive in a screw. Line up the opposite corner and drive in a screw there.

Clamp all four corners to your flat surface, then start driving the rest of the screws, in a spiral pattern from the center. When you're done, let it sit for 24 hours. The edges of MDF are fragile, easily crushed or torn. MDF is also notorious for absorbing water through these edges, causing the panels to swell. This edging is one of the complexities that Asa Christiana left out in his simplified design. I think this was a mistake. MDF really needs some sort of protection, especially on the edges.

Of course, I, on the other hand, with my Ikea oak countertop, probable went overboard in the other direction. I clamped the countertop to my bench base, and used the long cutting guide. I'd asked around for advice on cutting this large a piece of oak, and was told to try a Freud Diablo tooth blade in my circular saw.

I found one at my local home center, at a reasonable price, and it worked very well. Remember, you want the width of the top to match the width of the base, and you're adding edging. First, cut one long edge. Second, cut a short edge, making sure it's square to the long edge you just cut.

Finally, cut the remaining short edge square to both long edges. The length of the top doesn't need to precisely match anything, so we don't need to bother with clamping the trim before measuring. Glue up the trim on the end, first. Do a dry fit, first, then as you take it apart lay everything where you can easily reach it as you put it back together again, after adding the glue.

To help keep the edge piece aligned, I clamped a pair of hardboard scraps at each end. I used the piece of doubled MDF I'd cut off the end as a cawl, to help spread the pressure of the clamps. Squeeze some glue into a small bowl, and use a disposable brush. As you clamp down, position the trim just a little bit proud of the top surface. Once you have all the clamps on, take off the scraps of hardboard.

You can clean up the glue squeezeout with a damp rag.. When the glue is dry, trim down the strip flush with the panel using a router and a flush-trim bit. Then cut off the ends of the strip with a flush-cut saw, and clean up with a block plane, an edge scraper, or a sanding block. Leaving the ends in place while you route the edge helps support the router. The strips along the front and back edge is glued up the same way. I suppose you could try to glue both on simultaneously. I didn't try.

When the top is done, we want the edged MDF and the oak countertop to have exactly the same dimensions, and for their width to exactly match the width of the base. I could see three ways of doing this: 1, join the MDF to the countertop and use my belt sander to sand down their joined edges to match the base; 2, join the MDF to the countertop and use a hand plane to plane down their joined edges to match the base; or 3, use a flush-trim bit against a straight edge to route the MDF to the width of the base, then join the MDF to the countertop and use the flush-trim bit to route the countertop to match the MDF.

So I chose option 3. If you choose the same, you want to trim the edges of the MDF layer prior to joining it to the countertop. In other words, now. Put the MDF on the floor, bottom up. Flip the base and place it on the MDF. Line up the base on the MDF in the posiiton you feel best, then mark the position of the legs. Sorry, I have no picture of this. Flip the base upright, put the MDF on top of it, then use a straightedge to draw two straight lines joining the outside edges of the legs and extending the width of the MDF.

I used the countertop as the straightedge. Use a carpenter's square to transfer these lines onto the ends of the MDF. Put the countertop on the base, put the MDF on top of the countertop, and line up the marks you drew on each end of the MDF with the countertop below it. I clamped a couple of scraps of doubled MDF at each end to give the router base something extra to ride on at the ends. Edge-trimming endgrain can result in tearout at the right side, so route the short edge before you route the right long edge.

Routing the right edge can then clean any tearout that occurs on the short edge.. When gluing the oak edges on the MDF, I made a mistake. On the back side, the edging was positioned too low, which would leave a noticeable gap when the MDF and the countertop were joined. I was determined to fix it. Either of the strips I'd ripped from the oak countertop to remove the factory bevel looked like it would work, if I could figure out how to rip them safely with a circular saw.

I ended up using a couple of strips of MDF and a bar clamp to create a clamp that would hold the strip of oak, and had a profile low enough to fit under the cutting guide. Once I had the strip cut, I glued it in place, and clamped everything up.

I'd intentionally made it oversize, intending to trim it flush. Trimming is a little more complicated than usual, because I needed to trim it flush on two faces. Aside from the use of the edge guide, flush trimming the edge face was unremarkable. For trimming the top face, I again stood the panel vertically, with the router base riding on the top edge, and the bit cutting on the far side of the panel. Because I was cutting on the back edge of the work piece, I needed to move the router from right to left.

And here I ran into another problem. The gap in the edging that I was filling was not of even depth. That means that on the right side, I was routing away all of the strip I had glued in. The result was significant tear-out. I did what I always do when faced with this sort of gumption trap - I turned off the router, set it down, and walked away for a bit. I've found that whatever action I take in the frustration of dealing with something that hadn't worked right is almost always the wrong one, and usually makes things worse.

What I did, when I came back, was to clamp down the strip where it had torn away, and then to start routing from the other end. I still moved the router from right to left, but I did it in six-inch sections, taking light passes, and sort of whittled the strip flush. As the sections I was working were farther to the right, the strip was thinner. Eventually I came to where I was trimming the strip away entirely, at which point I took off the clamps and the remainder fell away.

A better solution would have been to route a rabbet into the side, so that the added strip always had thickness. The way I did it means that the strip I glued in is very narrow, and hence very weak, at a certain point. In this case, that's not a problem, because it's going to be sitting under the countertop layer.

I also noticed that because I had only clamped the strip down, and not into the edge, there was a noticeable glue gap where the strip butted up against the MDF. Again, in this application it isn't visible. But if I was doing something like this on the top of a table, I'd make sure to cut a clean rabbet, and to clamp both down and in.

So while for the end vise, if we mount it lower, we can make both the jaws deeper to compensate, for the front vise we cannot, so we want it mounted as close to the edge of the bench as possible. It's usual to attach vises with lag screws from the bottom, but there is a limit as to how many times you can tighten up a lag bolt in MDF. I decided to use bolts from the top down, embedding the heads of the bolts inside the top. First step was to cut a piece of MDF the size of the base of the vise.

I scribed the positions of the bolt holes in it, then driilled small pilot holes. I also drilled larger holes at the corners of the rectangular cutouts, and the joined them with a jigsaw. Then I flipped the top and the base, lied up the base in the proper location relative to the top, I then positioned the front vise and the support MDF for the end vise, and marked the locations of the bolt holes.

Then I flipped the base right side up, drilled small pilot holes from the bottom side where I had marked the locations, and then drilled shallow countersink holes from each side, then a through hole that matched the bolts. Finally I tried out the bolts and washers, and deepened the countersinks until the heads of the bolts were just below flush.

With the holes and countersinks in place, I inserted the bolts, used tape to keep them from falling out, flipped the top, applied glue to the support piece of MDF, fit it over the bolts, added washers and nuts, and tightened it down.

The reason I'd cut out the rectangles in the vise support was that I'd intended to put a benchdog hole through each, and I wanted the thickness of the top to be the same for all of the benchdog holes. Where I messed up was in not cutting out the ends, between the bolt tabs. I'd intended to put a benchdog hole through there, as well, but I'd forgotten to cut out the segments prior to glue0up.

No matter, It was only twenty minute's work to route out the areas flush with the top,. You'll want to get as much done on each of the two layers of the top separately, before we join them, because handling the top after the two layers are joined is going to be a major hassle.

So drill the benchdog holes through the MDF layer. Begin by laying out their positions. You'll want these to be precise, so that the distances between the holes are consistent. The vises you are using will constrain your benchdog spacing.

My front vise worked most naturally with two rows of holes four inches apart, my end vise with two pairs of rows, with four inches between the rows and eight inches between the pairs. Because of this, I decided on a 4" by 4" pattern. I lined up the template, and drilled a second hole, then put another bit through that. From then on, I worked entirely from the template.

With two bits through the holes pinning the template in place, the other holes in the template would be precisely located or so the theory goes on a 4x4" grid. Having done all this, I'm not sure I'd do it this way again. It might well be faster to layout the positions with compass and straightedge directly onto the top.

Either way, you'll want to use a scribe rather than a pencil. Scribe lines are hard to see, and impossible to photograph, but the scribe and compass points click into them, allowing a precision that pencils simply cannot match. Once you have all the positions marked, drill them through.

Drilling this many holes in MDF burns up bits. You're going to need to either buy several bits or learn to sharpen them. Forstner bits produce holes with cleaner edges than spade bits, but they cost more and they're more difficult to sharpen. With my layout, I needed to drill 52 precisely located holes.

I didn't get every one of them right. If you should drill a hole in the wrong position, if it doesn't overlap the correct position you can just ignore it. If it does, you'll need to fill it. Wipe up any glue squeeze out with a damp cloth. The next day, cut it flush. Use a block plane to ensure it truly is flush.

This will be the top of the bottom layer of the bench top, so gouges aren't a problem. Wiping up glue with a damp cloth can lead to stains and finishes applying unevenly. That won't be a problem here, either. But bulges and bumps are a problem - they will keep the two layers of the top from matching up evenly. Then mark the proper position, and drill it again.

There are a few tasks left on the MDF layer, prior to joining it to the countertop layer. First, we need to drill out the holes for the screws that will hold them together. The oak countertop, like any natural wood product, will expand and contract with humidity changes. If it were glued to the MDF, the difference in expansion of the two layers would cause the countertop to buckle and curl.

For that reason, all of the screw holes except one row along the front edge should be drilled oversize. This gives the wood a bit of room to move. For the most part I drilled through the existing holes left over from laminating the two sheets of MDF. In a few instances I moved a hole over a bit because it was too close to a benchdog hole.

And I created a new row of holes around the outside edge, because our original holes along the outside edge were cut off as we trimmed the MDF to size. Keep an eye on what will be underneath, you don't want the head of the screw to get in the way of the stretchers, legs, or vises. Practice on some scrap, first, to make sure you have the depth on the bit set right,. The end vise needs holes through the end stretcher.

I marked the holes by putting a dowel center in the end of a long piece of 1" dowel. Run it through the holes in the base plate, and bang on its end with a mallet. Rotate it a bit and bang it again, and repeat. Odds are the dowel center won't be precisely in the center of the dowel, so you'll be making a small ring of marks.

The center of the hole is, of course, the center of that ring. You can see my high-tech air-scrubber in one of the pictures. This helps a lot in keeping down the really fine dust that the shop-vac doesn't pick up. We need to cut it to length, and to width. We need to mark and drill the pilot holes for the screws. We probably don't really need to oil the surface between the two layers, but I decided to do so, anyway. I decided to drill pilot holes in the oak.

Just to make sure, I did a test hole in the scrap piece I'd cut off. That scrap piece of oak looks like I'll be able to use for something, maybe a cutting board. So I made a platform out of a stool, a scap of 4x4, a couple of srtips of MDF, and some shims, to catch it, as it was cut.

My test hole was done at the edge, so as to leave as much of the piece clean as was possible. The last thing is to semi-permanently attach the bolts for the vises. Given the amount of work necessary to get to the bolt heads, once the top is joined, I had intended to tighten them up so they wouldn't spin, and lock them that way with blue Loctite.

That's the strongest non-permanent grade. That didn't work. What I found was that the bottoms of the countersinks weren't quite flat, and when I tightened the nuts down that far, the ends of the bolts would be pulled far enough out of alignment that the vise bases would no longer fit. In order for the vises to fit over the bolts, I had to leave the nuts loose enough that the bolts had a bit of wiggle - which meant that they were almost loose enough for the bolts to spin.

So I put Loctite on the nuts, to keep them from unscrewing, and filled the countersinks with Liquid Nails, in hopes of keeping the bolts from spinning. I considered using epoxy, or a metal-epoxy mix like JB Weld, but I didn't have enough of either on hand. It seems to be working for now, though the real test won't be until I have to take the vises off. Lay the countertop layer flat, top-side down.

Put the MDF layer on top of it, top-side down. Line up the through-holes in the MDF with the pilot holes in the oak. Screw the two layers together. Be careful. A doubled sheet is manageable. It takes real care to lift safely. The joined top - 3" thick of oak and MDF - is past the range that can be lifted safely by one person. Don't try. Get a friend to help, or rig a block-and-tackle.

It's pretty easy to keep the drill vertical with the existing hole to guide you. If you remember, when drilling the MDF I finished the holes from the other side using a Forstner bit. It made for a clean hole, but the positioning wasn't as precise as I really wanted. So for this, I decided to clamp a length of scrap MDF to the back side, and to drill straight through.

My Forstner bits were too short, so I bought an extender. And then I found that the spade bits I was using gave a cleaner exit hole. Whooda thunk? I found, when I cut the oak countertop, that the interior oak wasn't always of the same quality as the exterior. The cuts left exposed a large knot with an extensive void. This needed to be dealt with.

I clamped the top to the side of the base, as I had done before, so that the edge with the knot would be easy to work with. I mixed up some ordinary five-minute epoxy and added just a touch of black epoxy pigment. I applied this freely. After about twenty minutes I checked on it and found that in the deepest spot the void wasn't entirely filled, so I mixed up another batch and added more.

After that had cured for a bit I eased the top to the floor and applied a coat of oil to the bottom side. I planned on attaching the base to the top the next day, and I wanted the bottom side oiled to keep it from absorbing moisture. As I said earlier, be careful moving the top. I rigged a simple pulley system to make moving the top possible for one person. Photos in a later step.

But a husky friend or two would work as well, and would be faster. With the top laying on the floor, bottom side up, the next step is to flip the base upside down, and attach it to the top. I followed Asa Christiana's design, in using s-clips.

When I stopped by my local Woodcraft, though, they only had two packages of ten, so I didn't use as many as I would have, otherwise. For the top I put four on each side and two on each end. For the shelf I put three on each side and two on each end. If it turns out that I need more, I can always add more. First, line up the base with the top. Then screw it down using the s-clips. Mount the vise bases, and tighten them down with nuts, washers, and lock-washers.

Flip it on edge, and sand the edges smooth. If you used epoxy to fill voids, as I did, you might want to start with a belt sander. Or if you're more comfortable with hand tools, you might use a card scraper. With a random orbital sander, work through , , and grit. Then flip it over and do the other edge. After sanding the second edge, clamp the shelf in place, oiled side down.

Then flip the bench upside down again, and attach the shelf to the base using s-clips. With the shelf secure, get a couple of friends to come help, and stand the bench on its feet. I said earlier moving the top by yourself is dangerous. Trying to lift the entire bench is foolhardy. Of course, I already said I'm stubborn, so I did it myself by rigging a simple block-and-tackle using lightweight pulleys I got at the hardware store.

Not the lightest-weight pulleys, those are meant for flag poles and have a design load of something like 40 pounds. These had a design load of pounds. With the bench now standing up, it's easy to give the top a light going over with the random orbital sander.

Again, , , and grit. I decided to finish the top with a number of coats of Danish oil, followed by a coat of wax. I applied the first coat of oil in the usual manner, making sure to cover the edges, and down the holes. I applied a coat oil to the top side of the shelf, as well. Wipe it on, let it sit wet for half-an-hour, then rub it off. Wait a day or two, add a second coat, and then again for a third. With the bench assembled, and the vise bases mounted, it's time install the vise jaws.

On a vise, the surfaces that hold whatever it is they are holding are the jaws. I'd intended to install the front vise so that it uses the edge of the bench top as the stationary jaw, so for it I only needed to build the moving jaw. For the end vise I needed both stationary and moving.

My local home store stocked finished clear oak 2x6 in two foot lengths, at a fairly hgh price per board-foot, but a quite reasonable actual price considering my local lumberyard doesn't sell boards in 2' lengths. The home store didn't carry oak 2x8s. But it did carry oak 1x8s in four foot lengths.

Two of these glued together would give me the stock I needed, at a lower cost than buying an eight-foot length of 2x8 at the lumberyard. The process of cutting them up and gluing them together is straightforward. Once glued, I routed the bottom edge of each straight, then started fitting them.

Now that we have our material for the vise jaws prepared, cut it to length plus a margin for error. Clamp the inner jaw of the end vise in position, leaving a little bit to trim off later, and then use the dowel and dowel center trick through the screw and guiide rod holes of the vise base plate to mark the position of the screw and guide rod holes in the jaw.

I used the drill guide for most of the holes, and drilled freehand for the last bit. When you're starting a spade bit in a deep hole like this, start the drill very slowly, and the bit will move the drill into a perpendicular position. Start it too fast and the bit will bind and you'll damage the sides of the hole. Do a test assembly of the vise, and see how things fit. The moving part of the vise should move freely.

If it binds somewhere, you'll need to identify where and widen the appropriate hole. If the holes of the first jaw are in the proper position, drill holes in the same locations on the other jaw. Then I removed the drilled jaw and drilled out the marked locations the same way I did the first. The jaw for the front vise is prepared the same way,.

One you have the vise jaws shaped so that the vise moves freely, mark and drill holes in the fixed jaw for the bolts that will hold it to the bench. With these drilled, reassemble the vise and mark the location of the holes with an awl. Disassemble the vise and drill the holes through the stretcher, then reassemble the vise and bolt the inner jaw in place. With the inner jaw fastened to the bench, I used the router to flush-trim the jaw to the benchtop, across the top and down the sides adjacent to the top stopping short of the discontinuity between the top and the legs.

I'd thought this would be the best way to match up the jaw against the top, but I'd not do it this way again. It was very difficult to hold the router tight against the face of the jaw, and the result was a surface that wasn't as even as I had hoped.

Mark and drill the holes and countersinks that will hold the outer jaws to the vises for both the front and the end vise. Remove the jaws and route the edges that you could not route while they were still attached. Then use a roundover bit on all of the corners except the inner edge of the inner jaw of the end vise.

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